Dancing with La Muerta

It’s hard to believe the concrete chaos of Mexico City was once a large system of lakes and canals. At Xochimilco, it’s possible to get a taste of what things once were. Trajineras, boats reminiscent of Venetian gondolas, line the docks, waiting to take tourists out to see the floating gardens that lounge throughout the […]

Dia de Los Muertos

“Only against death does man cry out in vain.”  — Malcolm Lowry Anita seemed perplexed. Lara, Emma and I were all standing in the middle of San Gregorio Cemetery with tears streaming down our cheeks. It was all so beautiful. So sad. So poignant. We were surrounded by hundreds, perhaps thousands, of Mexican families who […]

Monster cars in Mexico City

At first I thought it was my imagination. Too much Day of the Dead. A car swirling around El Ángel on Mexico City’s Paseo de la Reforma had a distinctly dead look. Then another one. A VW Bug this time. And another. As a guide explained the significance of this angel erected to commemorate Mexico’s War […]