A haunting, hilarious talk on the beach with George Saunders

(To read El Gringo Feo’s Costa Rica Diary from the beginning, start here.) Tuesday, August 28 I’ve been thinking a lot about ghosts. We passed a Tico cemetery at some point while Jeff was driving me from the airport in San José to Uvita, and I noticed the graves there were above ground, a cluster of […]

Dia de Los Muertos

“Only against death does man cry out in vain.”  — Malcolm Lowry Anita seemed perplexed. Lara, Emma and I were all standing in the middle of San Gregorio Cemetery with tears streaming down our cheeks. It was all so beautiful. So sad. So poignant. We were surrounded by hundreds, perhaps thousands, of Mexican families who […]

Monster cars in Mexico City

At first I thought it was my imagination. Too much Day of the Dead. A car swirling around El Ángel on Mexico City’s Paseo de la Reforma had a distinctly dead look. Then another one. A VW Bug this time. And another. As a guide explained the significance of this angel erected to commemorate Mexico’s War […]