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Peru Bob Travel Bob

Salt of the earth

Nowhere is the line from Incans to modern Andeans more clear than here at the Salineras, vast salt mines near Tarabamba.

I have to admit, I was underwhelmed at the prospect of going to salt mines after drifting through the Moray circles and taking in the mountain vistas a little while ago.

But as I stand in the middle of the salt mines, I’m astounded by the scale of the operation. About 3,000 squares of various sizes are terraced into the valley, and each family gets a maximum of nine. The plots are passed from generation to generation, and people have beeing mining salt here since Incan times.

As we watch several people working their squares, much as their ancestors did years ago, I make a mental note not to question Hernan when he’s laying out the day’s itinerary …

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Peru Bob Travel Bob

Buenas vistas

We arrive in Moray early, and the dividend we receive for our quick start to the day is an opportunity to wander the ruins in solitude, amazed by the circular Incan stonework that likely was some sort of agricultural test grounds. The views of the Urubamba and Vilcabamba mountain ranges in the distance are astounding, some of the most beautiful vistas I’ve seen send Machu Picchu.

As we arrive, a flock of caracara (vultures) hop around on the ground and soar in vast wings.

What an amazing way to start a day …

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Peru Bob Travel Bob

Truckin’

“This is the best food I’ve ever had from the back of a truck,” Wes told Tammy as we ate lunch in the shadow of a waterfall in the Urubamba River valley.

A perplexed look crossed Tammy’s face until she realized Wes was offering the ultimate compliment. Then she broke into a wide smile.

Tammy is the owner of Cicciolina restaurant in Cuzco, and one of her specialties is cooking picnic lunches on site in various scenic spots throughout the Sacred Valley. She and two assistants arrive in a 4-wheel-drive truck, bringing all the fixings and a propane tank for cooking. They set up a tent. Ice down the wine. And lunch is served.

We had lunch this way two days in a row.

First, we dined near the waterfall. The food was incredible and included our second taste of cuy (guina pig), this time as part of a tuna salad that was strikingly different from anything I’d ever had.

The second day, Tammy, an Australian ex-pat who has lived in Peru for 10 years, was supposed to be serving barbecue. But Hernan knew Wes was hankering for a steak, and he managed to get the menu changed at the last minute. So while sheep grazed nearby, Wes and I dug into a couple of delicious grilled steaks. Tammy had to adjust for the altitude when cooking the steaks, noting that it would take 20 minutes to get Hernan’s steak well done. Even then, it came out closer to medium. I could only imagine the adjustments baking must take at this altitude.

For the triple play, we dropped by Cicciolina for lunch while we were in Cuzco. And again, we marveled at how good the food was. I had scallops backed on the shells, lamb shank and a poached pear. Delicioso, even if there wasn’t a roaring waterfall or scenic lake nearby as we dined …