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Locking through to Watts Bar




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Originally uploaded by Suffering the Benz

I was on my way to Melton Hill Park to let the hounds stretch their legs when Tom called. He and Jim were going to lock through to Watts Bar. Did I want to go?

Hell yes.

I returned to the house and met them on my dock, and we set off for the Fort Loudon Locks. It’s something I’ve always wanted to do but was way too intimidated to try. Growing up in Pittsburgh, I was well aware of locks and how they allow you to rise or fall to the next water level on a river. But I’d never tried to go through myself.

Here in Tennessee, the locks at Fort Loudon form a barrier. Watts Bar was always like some other, mystical world that I couldn’t enter. I’ve gone up into Tellico a good ways. And I’ve gone all the way upstream to Knoxville. But I’d never gone onto Watts Bar.

It really wasn’t as tough as I thought it would be, but it’s still a process. And the laughing lockmaster was quick to remind us that we were indeed newbies here. “This wouldn’t be your first time locking through, would it,” he asked. We just laughed.

As the water level drops 90 feet to Watts Bar, it’s a pretty astounding sight. We looked up at the gate holding back Lake Loudon while Tom reminded us that it was the only thing between us and millions of gallons of water that we were beneath. When the lock into Watts Bar finally opened, we motored through the flotsam and jetsam outside it and into Watts Bar.

It felt much more like a river than Loudon, with narrower channels and less development on the shores. It reminded me of the portions of Melton Hill Lake that I’ve paddled in my kayak.

We went about four or five miles downstream, to about mile marker 596, then turned around and locked back through into Lake Loudon.

Tom and Jim dropped me off on my dock as the sun set and a full moon rose, and I was once again reminded of what a sublime place Tennessee is in the autumn …

More photos here, including indisputable proof that Jim truly is the Bishop of Bivalves.

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Fall boat ride




Fall boat ride

Originally uploaded by Suffering the Benz

Lara and I took advantage of the great fall weather on Sunday to cruise around Lake Loudon for a few hours. It was a beautiful ride and we had the lake to ourselves for the most part.

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Clouds over Bryce Canyon




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Originally uploaded by Suffering the Benz

I decided to leave Las Vegas before my outdoor to-do list was exhausted. I’d hiked Mount Charleston and kayaked on Lake Mead, but I hadn’t been to Valley of Fire. I also wanted to see Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park in Utah.

So I set off on a Saturday after stopping at Carlito’s for a breakfast burrito smothered in green chile. I drove with purpose but not defined direction, moving toward Lake Mead and on to the Valley of Fire, where I spent some time scrambling around the Mars-red rocks all around me. From there, I set off for Utah and Zion National Park.

Valley of Fire was a match compared to the flame throwers in Utah. I knew that seeing Zion and Bryce in 24 hours was like trying to take in the Louvre in an hour. But I was determined to give it a shot.

In short, it was amazing. I drove through Zion on Saturday afternoon, wishing the entire time I had the gear and time to stop and camp there. I found a hotel not far from Bryce Canyon that night, allowing me to get there shortly after sunrise on Sunday morning.

It was a strange night. After three months in parched Las Vegas, I couldn’t get all the way to sleep because of a Utah rainstorm that hammered the roof of the hotel. I had lots of strange dreams. I was unsettled. Working things out.

The next morning, I skipped breakfast and headed straight for Bryce. I was astouned by its beauty. It was cold and windy in the wake of the previous night’s storms, but I marched along the rim of the canyons with my camera and a Cheshire cat grin, hardly fazed by the fact that I was wearing a T-shirt while everyone around me was in Gore-Tex and fleece.

As I walked along the rim of the canyon, a photographer said in a heavy French accent, “Yesterday, the sun was out. Today … the clouds, the clouds.”

“Sometimes a cloudy day is better,” I responded (and submit the photo on this page as proof).

He smiled, clutching his camera and looking skyward.

The Long Way Home — photos