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Peru Bob Travel Bob

Tossing chum in the water

Children selling shoeshines, finger puppets, postcards and cigarettes navigate the narrow streets of Cuzco like a pack of piranhas. Once they smell gringo dollars, they start a frenzied circling motion and spin up their pitch, which is well-rehearsed and fairly uniform.

“Want to buy a postcard?”

“No, gracias.”

“Why not?”

“No es necessario.”

“Where you from?”

“Los Estados Unidos.”

“Ahhhh. The capital is Washington. The president is George Booosh. Before him was Clinton. Before him was another Booosh. Before him was Reagan. Before him was …”

And on and on. Sometimes it’s a chance to practice my Spanish. Others it’s just annoying.

They are all orphans.

They all have five brothers and sisters.

They all make 10 nuevos soles per day (about 3 bucks). But today they have made nothing and want something to eat.

It tries my patience because after you’ve heard it once, it’s so obviously a come-on. But I try to be gracious and humorous. I even learned that singing “no no no no no no no” in a descending scale as they persist with their pitch draws a smile and makes them realize the answer really is “no” and that “no,” I won’t want to buy that postcard “maybe later,” either.

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Peru Bob Travel Bob

Hay agua

It’s easy to marvel at the Incans’ skilled masonry, but one thing that really pops out at me is their command of water. They were brilliant at channeling it for agricultural and aesthetic purposes. Their fountains are marvelous. It’s humbling to stand in front of the tingling waters and realize this sound has been reverberating through the nearby stone for hundreds of years. And it’s all by design. It would be hard not to incorporate rushing water into the architecture here. Cascading mountain springs are the Sacred Valley’s soundtrack. The distant roar of water is always present, at Machu Picchu, in Urumbamba, in Cuzco. And the Incans echoed it as they built their cities.

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Peru Bob Travel Bob

On pottery and politics

Marilu Behar is describing pottery technique in a video at Seminario Ceramicas in Urubamba, and I am instantly smitten. She has a quietly direct yet impassioned demeanor and though I am reading the English subtitles in the video, I am listening closely to the cadence of her Spanish.